Cilgerran Castle

“High above the River Teifi, Cilgerran Castle dominates the landscape with its twin round towers and rugged stone walls.”

This 13th-century fortress, though now a ruin, still exudes the power and authority it once held over the surrounding lands. Its strategic position and formidable defences made it a significant stronghold during the medieval period.

The Castle’s Story

Cilgerran Castle was first mentioned in the historical record in 1108. The Normans had pushed west after their conquest of England and needed a string of strongholds to hold back the native Welsh princes. Cilgerran sat in a natural defensive position, with steep drops on two sides and a river barrier to the north. This made it ideal for fortification.

Originally built in wood by Gerald of Windsor, the castle was seized and destroyed by Welsh forces under Owain ap Cadwgan in a bold attack. It was later rebuilt in stone, probably around 1223, under William Marshal, the Earl of Pembroke. Marshal’s influence and resources transformed it into a strong, stone fortress with a massive twin-towered gatehouse. It became one of the major castles in west Wales, standing guard at the edge of the Norman-held territory.

Cilgerran was not only a military base but also a political tool. It projected power into Wales, serving as a reminder of Norman control. Over time, as the frontier shifted and the threat diminished, the castle’s role changed. By the 15th century, its military value had faded, though it still carried symbolic weight.

Key Moments / Turning Points

One of the most vivid events in Cilgerran’s story came early. In 1109, Nest ferch Rhys, a Welsh princess and wife of Gerald of Windsor, was abducted from the original wooden castle. Owain ap Cadwgan, a rival Welsh lord, led the raid. Some called it a romantic escape, others a violent abduction. Either way, the act triggered a crisis. Norman control wobbled. Welsh forces pushed back. The castle was lost and had to be fought for again.

Another turning point came under William Marshal in the early 13th century. Marshal was no local upstart. He was regent of England during the minority of Henry III and had fought alongside Richard the Lionheart. When he turned his attention to Cilgerran, he wasn’t playing games. The wooden fortification became a high-status stone castle, better defended and better supplied. From that point on, Cilgerran was no backwater.

During the revolt of Llywelyn ap Gruffudd in the 13th century, Cilgerran again became strategically important. Though not the focus of major sieges, it stood as a rear defence against Welsh resurgence. By the time the Wars of the Roses swept through England in the 15th century, Cilgerran had fallen into neglect. Its last military use likely came not through battle, but as a safe house or base for minor skirmishes.

Legends and Lore

The tale of Nest ferch Rhys hangs over Cilgerran like a winter fog. She was a noblewoman of striking beauty, daughter of Rhys ap Tewdwr, the last independent prince of Deheubarth. Married off to Gerald of Windsor, she was meant to help bridge the fragile peace between Welsh rulers and Norman lords. Instead, her abduction became one of the most dramatic and talked-about incidents in medieval Welsh history.

Owain ap Cadwgan stormed the castle and took Nest, along with her children. Some stories claim she went willingly, driven by old affection or political ambition. Others paint it as a brutal raid and abduction. What is clear is that the event embarrassed the Normans and gave fresh energy to the Welsh cause. Nest later returned to Norman hands, but her legend endured. She became known as the “Helen of Wales,” though unlike Helen of Troy, her story doesn’t end in mythic tragedy but in quiet survival.

Another local story speaks of hidden tunnels beneath the castle. Supposedly, they lead down to the river or even stretch across to Cardigan. No solid proof exists, but such stories were common around castles with steep drops and secret corners. A whispered idea of escape or hidden treasure. There’s also the tale of a phantom hound roaming the battlements at dusk, said to be the spirit of a long-dead guard dog still protecting its post. Not proven, of course, but not easily dismissed either by locals.

Older traditions suggest the area was sacred even before the Normans arrived. The River Teifi is steeped in folklore. Close by lies the legendary haunt of Afagddu, the son of the witch Ceridwen, from the Welsh Mabinogion tales. Whether that had any bearing on the location of Cilgerran is unclear, but it adds depth to the ground beneath the stone.

In modern times, ghost sightings have been reported, though nothing official. Just the usual cold spots, odd echoes, and the occasional figure glimpsed in a window that has no floor behind it. It’s the kind of place where even silence feels watched.

Architecture & Features

Cilgerran Castle follows the terrain. Its builders didn’t force their design onto the land. They worked with it. The layout is compact, hugging the cliff edge with an oval curtain wall. The showpieces are the twin round towers that dominate the gatehouse. Few other castles in Wales use this form quite so prominently or so effectively. These towers weren’t just for defence. They made a statement.

The round towers, built in the early 13th century, rise above the gate and face the landward approach. They gave the defenders sight lines down the valley and across the narrow ridge leading in. Any assault had to come up this narrow neck. Arrows, stones and boiling oil waited.

Inside the gate, the courtyard is tight. This wasn’t a luxurious palace. It was a military post first, though it would have included a hall, chapel, kitchens and accommodation. Only the lower walls and stubs of staircases remain now, but the scale is still clear. The walls were thick. The chambers cold. But it would have felt imposing. The masonry is mostly local slate stone, laid without excessive polish but strong enough to last.

To the rear, the curtain wall drops sharply towards the river gorge. This side needed no defence — the natural rock face did the work. There are traces of a postern gate, probably for secret access to the river below. Water was vital in a siege. So was escape, when things turned grim.

Inside the towers, spiral staircases twist up through the stone. Narrow arrow slits let in the light and gave archers deadly focus. You can still climb some of these stairs. The view from the top is hard to match. To the north, the Teifi carves its way through woodland. To the south, the land flattens into farmland, once watched constantly for signs of trouble.

The castle’s compact size and cliff-edge design make it different from sprawling strongholds like Caerphilly or Harlech. Cilgerran was built to dominate a tight strategic point. That’s exactly what it did. Even in ruin, the strength of its lines still carries weight.

Prof. Herman enjoying the castle grounds!

Modern Access / Preservation

Cilgerran Castle is under the care of Cadw, the Welsh Government’s historic environment service. They’ve managed the site since the mid-20th century, overseeing careful maintenance and ensuring the structure remains safe for visitors. While the castle is largely a ruin, it’s a clean and stable one. The walls have been consolidated, the towers reinforced, and access routes improved over the years.

It’s not been over-restored. There are no fibreglass figures or fake banqueting halls. Just the raw stone and real air. Cadw has added useful interpretation boards across the site, offering context for the features that survive. These include reconstructions of what the rooms may have looked like and descriptions of the key events that took place here.

The grounds are kept tidy but not sterile. Grass grows freely in the courtyard, and moss works its way into the joints of the stone. It’s not neglected, just left with some character. You won’t find pristine lawns. Instead, the sense of place is respected. This was once a military outpost, not a palace garden.

A modest visitor centre sits near the entrance. It offers leaflets, maps and some historical background, as well as a small shop for books and local crafts. The site staff are helpful, often local, and bring their own insights to the experience. There’s no café on-site, but the nearby village of Cilgerran has a couple of spots for a cuppa or lunch.

Preservation is always a balance. At Cilgerran, the choice has been to hold the line — to stop decay without pretending this place can be brought fully back to life. That suits the place. It was never built to be pretty. It was meant to command. It still does.

Visiting Today

Cilgerran Castle is open to the public year-round, though access may vary slightly in winter. The entrance is along a quiet road in the village of Cilgerran itself. There’s a modest car park nearby, with a short walk to the gatehouse. Paths are mostly gravel and grass, with some uneven sections, but the site is manageable for most visitors. The towers are partially open, though access to upper levels depends on weather and safety conditions.

Families often bring children, and there’s room to explore without getting lost. The towers are climbable, though not ideal for the very young or anyone unsteady on their feet. Dogs on leads are allowed, which makes it a popular stop for walkers in the Teifi Valley. You can even make a day of it — there’s a riverside path that runs from the castle down to the Welsh Wildlife Centre, about 20 minutes on foot.

What you won’t find is noise or clutter. This isn’t a castle overrun by ice cream vans or live-action roleplay events. Cilgerran keeps its dignity. That makes it ideal for those who prefer their history unfiltered. The views alone are worth the visit. On a clear day, the valley opens up towards Cardigan, and you can track the Teifi twisting through woods and farmland like a lazy green serpent.

In spring and summer, wildflowers press against the stone, and birds circle the towers. Swifts and jackdaws seem to have adopted the castle as their own. Autumn brings a different beauty. Damp air, fallen leaves, and the smell of wet stone. It’s not showy, but it lingers in the memory.

Local facilities are close. The village has a couple of pubs and a shop. Cardigan is a short drive away with more food and accommodation options. For those combining history with walking, the Pembrokeshire Coast National Park lies just beyond. Cilgerran works well as a base or a stop on a wider tour.

No booking is usually needed, and entry is modestly priced. Cadw members get in free, of course. You can wander at your own pace. Stay for ten minutes or two hours. It won’t push itself on you. But it stays with you.

References

• Cadw. “Cilgerran Castle.” Cadw.gov.wales, https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/cilgerran-castle

• RCAHMW. Coflein Database – Cilgerran Castle entry, https://coflein.gov.uk

• Davies, John. A History of Wales. Penguin Books, 2007.

• Pettifer, Adrian. Welsh Castles: A Guide by Counties. Boydell Press, 2000.

• Remfry, P.M. Cilgerran Castle and the March of Pembroke. Castle Studies Research & Publishing, 1995.

• Historic Environment Record, Dyfed Archaeological Trust.

• VisitWales.com, “Exploring Cilgerran.”

• Mabinogion references for Nest ferch Rhys and regional lore.